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	<title>Tim Matcham Garden Design &#187; mushroom compost</title>
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		<title>Gardening &#124; Garden Design &#124; Clay soil &#8211; and how to improve it</title>
		<link>http://timmatchamgardendesign.co.uk/garden/gardening-garden-design-clay-soil-and-how-to-improve-it/</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 08 Apr 2010 20:23:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Tim Matcham</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[garden]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garden design]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[amelioration]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[clay]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[compost]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Garden Organic]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mushroom compost]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[organic material]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Plant]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Soil pH]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://timmatchamgardendesign.co.uk/?p=847</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The soil in Wiltshire, where I live changes dramatically - heading West towards Bath it is predominantly very heavy clay over sandstone, while less than a mile to the East, heading towards Chippenham the soil becomes very sandy.
The small clay particles that make it so difficult to work and so poor draining have the benefit of retaining lots of wonderful nutrients. Nutrients that plants like roses absolutely love. Sandy soil tends to see these nutrients washed away.
The secret is applying a layer of organic material about 2 inches thick every year. Then sitting back and letting the worms do all the hard work! It is important to vary the type of organic material applied so that a variety of nutrients are released. Sticking with say - spent mushroom compost will lead to the soil becoming quite acid so use well rotted farmyard manure, leaf mould, soil improver and compost. 





]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The soil in Wiltshire, where I live changes dramatically &#8211; heading West towards Bath it is predominantly very heavy clay over sandstone, while less than a mile to the East, heading towards Chippenham the soil becomes very sandy.</p>
<p>Both soil types have their advantages and disadvantages, here we will focus on the clay and look at what we can do to improve it.</p>
<p>Clay does have some benefits &#8211; though those may be difficult to see and appreciate when the weather is cold and wet. The ground becomes completely sodden and unworkable.It sticks to your fork and you can&#8217;t dig it &#8211; and if you could it won&#8217;t really do any good. Extracting weeds is a nightmare and you begin to wonder whether gardening is really for you. It&#8217;s hard, back breaking work and so unrewarding.</p>
<p>But wait &#8211; you heard me say that clay has some benefits &#8211; like what?</p>
<p>The small clay particles that make it so difficult to work and so poor draining have the benefit of retaining lots of wonderful nutrients. Nutrients that plants like roses absolutely love. Sandy soil tends to see these nutrients washed away.</p>
<p>The heavy nature of the clay soil also means that larger plants have better anchorage and are less prone to being blown over in the wind. A garden that I am working on at the moment has more tree stakes and props than I have ever seen and all because the soil has no real structure for the plants to hold on to.</p>
<p>Having said that clay retains nutrients &#8211; it is important that the plants are given to opportunity of taking these up and this is where amelioration of the soil comes in.</p>
<p>A garden that I have been working on for a number of years had the most unworkable clay soil that I can recall encountering. Even my parents clay soil in Cheshire pales in to second place. Yet over the last few years we have worked wonders with the soil to the point now where it is easy to work and a wide variety of plants benefit.</p>
<p>The secret to this transformation? Hard work - digging and aerating &#8211; resulting in a broken back? Not on your life!</p>
<p>The secret is applying a layer of organic material about 2 inches thick every year. Then sitting back and letting the worms do all the hard work! It is important to vary the type of organic material applied so that a variety of nutrients are released. Sticking with say &#8211; spent mushroom compost will lead to the soil becoming quite acid so use well rotted farmyard manure, leaf mould, soil improver and compost.</p>
<p>What does this do to the soil? The humus in the organic material- that dark slimy goo &#8211; that results from the material breaking down actually combines with the tiny particles to make larger particles. This allows better drainage, more air circulation and freer, more friable soil. The worms take the organic material down meaning that you don&#8217;t have to. When you do come to dig out weeds or replant the ground it becomes an easier, much less painful experience.</p>
<p>So don&#8217;t put your back into it just apply a layer of organic material every year and watch your soil transform. The bad news is that because organic material continues breaking down, the soil will revert in time to the clay that came before. If you have sandy soil and are wondering what the remedy for that is &#8211; well actually it is the same! Yes &#8211; organic material in the form of compost and other material will have an equally beneficial effect on this too! No wonder gardeners often refer to it as black gold!</p>
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